Since I made the first draft of this diary I received the gift of a book for Christmas. The book is called GOD AT EVERY GATE - Prayers and blessings for pilgrims. I am caught up by the opening words -

Saturday 22^nd November 1997
We congregated in St Mary's for a short service at 12.10 pm. After the service we said goodbye to our families and friends and left by coach for Heathrow. On arrival at 5.15 pm we waited for the Orientours representative. At about 6 pm we were greeted by Jasmine of Orientours who gave us various instructions. Soon it was time to begin the boarding process The intensity of the security procedure is, I believe, unique to El-Al travellers. It was extremely stringent and physically gruelling but we knew it was for our benefit. By the time we eventually dispensed with our luggage we were all feeling a bit jaded to say the least.

We boarded the plane which took off on schedule. We were offered a drink which was followed by a reasonably good meal accompanied by wine, if you wished, and then topped with an Israeli liqueur. We were all seated well back in the plane and somehow the atmosphere seemed rather airless. So much so that after a while Marion Watts fainted, Cath Roberts began to look very poorly and Kay Whittle passed out completely and was unable to be roused. They called for any physician aboard to come forward and ultimately, thankfully, Kay regained consciousness and was moved to the back of the plane to lie down. It transpired that the doctor who had come to her aid was professor of cardiology in Jerusalem. All's well that ends well and ultimately we landed and after some immigration procedures transferred to a coach. The flight had been, for me, not as bad as I had anticipated and I felt pretty proud of myself but very weary. Our courier for the pilgrimage joined us at this stage. His name was Haggai and he introduced us to our driver, Toby.

Sunday 23^rd November
As soon as my head touched the seat of the coach I fell asleep and was awakened some time later by music. The courier was playing a tape of The Holy City. What a feeling? Floods of tears. The sun was shining but the lower parts of the city were shrouded in mist. Our first glimpse of this wonderful city was as it rose out of the mist. I fell in love with it immediately. A moment to remember and treasure.

We arrived at the Windmill Hotel where it was suggested we took breakfast before we went to our rooms. The breakfast was very comprehensive. Cereals, cheese, yoghurts, salads, fish, fruits and fruit juices, scrambled egg plus toast and all kinds of jam. I was not particularly hungry at that point but more concerned with getting to bed. Brenda and I went to our room and I put on the alarm for 11.30 am. We slept well and were feeling pretty good when we joined the coach at 12 o'clock. It was good to see Kay and John amongst us. Kay now feeling much better.

We took a short trip on the coach to Mount Zion. We saw the Zion Gate and we visited the Dormition Church associated with the falling asleep of the Virgin Mary. From the Church we climbed the staircase to the Cenacle - the Hall of the Last Supper. This is the site where Jesus is said to have washed the feet of the disciples. The Crusaders built the Gothic archwork in the 12th century and it was rebuilt in its present form in the 14th century. It is an elegant but bare room and is located on the second floor of the complex which contains David's Tomb. We visited the tomb and I was very impressed to see a young girl praying fervently and quite oblivious of our presence.

The word Zion - city of David - appears in the OT as a title for Jerusalem and is also synonymous with Israel. Mount Zion was the site of the ancient city captured by King David and God dwelt on Zion from where he protected the Children of Israel. Zionism is the name of the movement dedicated to re-establishing a Jewish homeland in Palestine.

Haggai then took us to a restaurant overlooking the City of Jerusalem. The panorama was magnificent and the food excellent. We had a group photograph taken superimposed on a background of Jerusalem. It was a beautiful warm, sunny day, and hard to believe that we were looking across to THE HOLY CITY and down to the Kidron Valley. After lunch drove we were driven to the Mount of Olives to look across the dessert in the direction of the Dead Sea and to the red hills of Edom beyond. We saw the Church of the Pater Noster but, unfortunately it was closed.

We temporarily left the coach and walked down in the direction of the Garden of Gethsemane. We saw the various cemeteries including the most sacred Jewish one which is said to contain the body of Oskar Schindler of Schindler's List and possibly Robert Maxwell. Jewish tradition says that on the day of the Second Coming the Messiah will descend here to resurrect the dead who will then follow him through the Gate of Mercy - now the blocked Golden Gate and - into Jerusalem. Haggai pointed out that the gate is left slightly open! We then set off to walk to the Garden of Gethsemene which sits at the foot of the Mount of Olives

On our way to the Garden we visited the small Francisan Basilica of Dominus Flevit (The Lord Wept). This Church was designed by Francisan architect Antonio Barluzzi in 1953 and is shaped like a tear of Jesus. It marks the site where Jesus paused to weep over Jerusalem, its future and its inhabitants as he predicted its destruction. Whilst most churches face east this faces west to Jerusalem. Its large front window is shaped like a chalice and provides the view of Jerusalem as Jesus saw it. Further down we saw the Russian Orthodox Church easily identifiable by its golden onion domes. .

We continued our walk to the Garden of Gethsemane which contains many beautiful old olive trees, many of them standing since the time of Jesus. Their trunks are hollow but they continue to produce olives. It has been suggested that Judas hung himself at one of these trees. Unfortunately the Garden is now fenced off. Gwyn Harvey told us that when they visited 30 years ago it was possible to sit under the trees. However, the garden still provides a place of tranquility and beauty very close to the city walls. If only these trees could speak - what would they have to say about Christ's last night of freedom?

At the foot of the Mount is the Church of All Nations, also known as the Basilica of the Agony. We saw it at the best time of the day when the sun's rays were bouncing off the brilliant Byzantine-style mosaic facade. It was built in 1924 by Barluzzi and funded by twelve nations. It contains the rock at which Jesus is said to have prayed the night before he entered the city of Jerusalem for the Passover supper. We were very fortunate because our visit coincided with a celebration of Mass and we stayed on to watch, listen and meditate. It was most impressive and very emotional and was a wonderful close to our first day. By the time we came out of the Church the daylight was fading but as we drove back to the hotel along the Kidron Valley we were able to see the impressive 1st century BC tomb monuments. The finest is the conical-roofed Tomb/Pillar of Absalom (King David's son). Nearby the tomb of Zechariah (unsure whether the prophet or the father of John. The third tomb belongs to Bene Hezir. This is the place where James is reputed to have hidden following Jesus' arrest.

We returned to our hotel for a pre-dinner drink followed by a good meal and some interactive chat about the events of the day.

By now the words of my favourite hymn are running through my mind constantly -

Monday, 24^th November
We leave at 8.15 for Bethlehem. En route we visit a souvenir shop recommended by Haggai. You know the ones - discount etc etc. It did contain some beautiful things I must say. I bought some crosses for the Mothers' Union and then spent some time debating whether to purchase an olive-wood crib. As usual, I couldn't make up my mind and suddenly time had run out.

We went on to the town and stopped in Manger Square, the heart of the town. This is the wide plaza which stands before the Church of the Nativity. It is buzzing with souvenir shops and street hawkers. We made our way to the Church of the Nativity. It is imposing but not beautiful. It is not only the oldest church in the land but the oldest church in the world. Built by Constantine in AD325 and remodelled at various times since. The entrance is through a tiny back-bending doorway - so low you almost have to bend double.. This would have been made for defence purposes and maybe to stop soldiers on horseback storming into the church.

The basilica is divided into five naves with a floor made from stone and wood. Trapdoors swing back to reveal original floor mosaics.
The Church is too important to be left in the hands of one denomination and so it is administered jointly by Greek Orthodox, Armenian and Francisan priests. The altar of the Nativity fairly drips with gold and silver.

We descended to the Grotto of the Nativity - a simple marble clad niche in the cave wall lit by an array of hanging lamps. A blackened 14 pointed silver star marks the birthplace of Jesus. It is inscribed in Latin, Hic de virgine Maria Jesus Christus natus est (Here Jesus Christ was born of the Virgin Mary). I had the privilege of reading. The air was charged with emotion and many people sobbed in the silence.

We moved to the Catholic Church which was plain but beautiful. Decorated with red roses. The manger scene is moved to the cave during Christmas. We then left Bethlehem seeing the Grotto where Mary is reputed to have hidden with Jesus before her flight to Egypt and also the Shepherds Fields where the shepherds were visited by the angels.

We were not allowed to wander independently through the streets of Bethlehem and I imagine that this was something to do with security.

In the area of Bethlehem is Rachel's Tomb. Haggai mentioned it but we did not actually visit it. Rachel was the wife of Jacob and mother of Benjamin. The shrine is one of the holiest in Judaism and a place of worthip for Jews and Muslims alike. The dome over the site was rebuilt by the British philanthropist Sir Moses Montefiore in 1841 at the place where "Jacob set a pillar upon her grave". I think our non-visit to this place was because of a spot of trouble.

We then travelled to Bethany on the far side of Mount Olives and visited the Tomb of Lazarus. It was possible to go into the Tomb of Lazarus but. on the grounds of claustrophia, I declined. We visited a small house which must have been something like the one which Martha and Mary occupied with their brother Lazarus. All that remains of the Church of Mary and Martha built in the 5th Century are the pillars in the courtyard. The present church dates from 1954 but unfortunately it was closed because it was lunch time. We then returned to Jerusalem via Checkpoint Charlie where there seemed to be many old cars lined up with lots of young men standing around doing nothing. Possibly the only time when I had a feeling that all was not normal. We had lunch in Jerusalem. As usual it was very good. I have taken a fancy to Baclava - filo pastry dripping with honey. Unusual because normally I do not like sweet things.

We then visited the Model of Jerusalem. Very interesting and an aid to help one to understand the geography of the city.

Our destination that afternoon was the Garden Tomb but beefore going there we visited a church built to mark the spot where Peter denied Jesus thrice. It is known as St Peter in Gallicantu (Cockcrow). The Church is interesting and adjoins a monastery. In the precincts is a statue to mark the denial. It is quite modern and was sculpted by a Jerusalem sculptor. Quite impressive. This could also be said to be the site of the house of the high priest Caiaphs, where Jesus was imprisoned overnight.

On to the Garden Tomb. A marvellous Christian site in the middle of the Arab hustle and bustle. It is said that this is the true site of Jesus' burial. Calvary and Golgotha both mean the place of the skull and there is certainly a pronounced skull shape in the adjacent hill. As our guide (very English) informed us there is much evidence that this, rather than the Church of the Holy Sepulchre is the place where Jesus was crucified and buried. Whatever you think this is a beautifully laid out place of sanctuary, and its rock-hewn cave tomb gives one a feeling of authenticity.

For us this was a moment to remember. We didn't go abundance on the guide but he was very easy to follow and clearly spoken and told us something of the history of the garden and why it was called the place of the skull. After his address we wandered around the garden and met up with him again outside the entrance to the tomb. It was a touching moment as we entered the tomb. It was hard to imagine that that was the place where Jesus had first been laid to rest.

The atmosphere in the garden was something difficult to put into words.There was the sound throughout the garden of various groups praying and singing. After a while we gathered together for the Eucharist administered sympathetically by Ian and Muriel. Readings were by Gwyn, David Williams and Wendy. As our eucharist progressed there was the sound of other groups, the call from the minaret. It seemed like many religions intermingling in a city of indescribability!

By the time we left the Garden it was dusk and there was something special about it. We returned to the Hotel for another good meal with a wonderful pilgrim atmosphere about the hotel itself.

Haggai has painted so many word pictures for us today. He really is a superb guide and we were fascinated to see him share our Eucharist despite the fact that he is a Jew. We don't quite understand.

Tuesday 25^th November
We left the Hotel at 8.15 again and made for the Dung Gate. Because this was the lowest point in the Old City, rubble and trash have been dumped here over the centuries, filling in much of the space between the upper level and the Temple Mount and giving the Dung Gate its unfortunate name. Today was to be a walking day. We walked along to the Western/Wailing Wall. There were a few explosions as we made our way there but Haggai explained that these were the breaking of the sound barrier. I had my doubts but didn't really feel threatened. I suspect it was a quarry or something of that nature. We had to go through several checkpoints to get to the Wall but I must say that the guards were extremely friendly and pleasant. They just wanted to see in our bags.

We walked to the Wailing Wall which rises to a height of 50 feet and consists chiefly of massive carved stone blocks from the Herodian era, topped by masonry from the Mameluke and Turkish periods. It was not part of the temple itself but merely the retaining wall for the western side of the Temple Mount. The wall is full of messages stuffed between the stones to form a grouting. Am I really here I ask myself? On one side were the women and on the other side the men. We were able to go to the Wall and pray. What a pecular sensation. A very odd experience. I somehow had the urge to rock just like the Jews. How fervent these people are. I cannot believe it. The age range was so broad. Young girls. Old ladies. Some old ladies begging at the wall. I felt full of inspiration, or was it inadequacy at the half-hearted way we approach our faith?

We moved away from the wall to wait for the men. They were allowed to go and look at the site of the continuing excavations but the ladies were not allowed to do so.

As we waited for the men we became aware of an altercation between two of the Jews. We never really discovered what it was about but other people had to intervene and try to make peace. Eventually they did somewhat reluctantly shake hands. What a place to be at war? They take some understanding!

From the Wall we made our way towards the Dome of the Rock which is on Temple Mount. Of course, the golden cupola of the Dome of the Rock is the most famous landmark in the city. Built in AD 688-691 it is adorned with thousands of exquisite blue and yellow Persian ceramic tiles with Koranic scriptures on the lintels. Its outward appearance is certainly breathtaking.

However, before going in to the Dome we visited the Al Aksa Mosque which is adjacent to it. It is the most important mosque in the city, and dates back to 1034, orginally being built in 715. It can accommodate as many as 5,000 worshippers. It straddles vast underground chambers known as Solomon's Stables. This is a splended place hung with magnificent chandeliers laid with priceless carpets and decorated with fine mosaics. Mohammed visited this place. Before entering the mosque we had to remove our shoes. These were guarded by Ian. As we entered the mosque barefooted some women were praying. Again with what vigour? They were not distracted by all the sightseers around them. They certainly are not embarassed by other people watching. They must have very good backs as they have to bend over so frequently and in fact it happens 5 times per day.

We were told that the carpets had been provided by King Hussein and also by King Farouk.

It is the place where in 1951 King Abdullah of Jordan was assasinated in front of his grandson King Hussein, as he entered for Friday prayers.

It is a wonderful mosque but not quite in the same league, in my opinion, as the one in Cordoba which I had visited a few years ago.

We left the mosque and collected our shoes from Ian and then walked in the garden and into the Dome of the Rock having again deposited our shoes.

The importance of this place is that on the mosque floor lies a huge slab, the Rock itself, and it is on here that Abraham prepared to sacrifice his son Isaac but was given a last minute reprieve. It is also the place from which Mohammed, mounted on his steed, rose to Heaven during his dream-visit to Jerusalem. You can still see his footprint but you need a guide to point it out.

The Dome is in three concentric circles. Several children were playing in the lower crypt. Beautiful black eyes!

The gate on the eastern side of the Temple mount which was closed by the Muslems who held Jerusalem is the gate by which the Jews believe the Messiah would enter the Temple. Haggai, our guide, has mentioned the leaving open of the Golden Gate for the entry of the Messiah!

After leaving the Dome of the Rock we walked to the Church of St Anne (the mother of Virgin Mary). This is a very peaceful site in the Muslim quarter. This church is said to be the finest Crusader church in the city. As we waited to enter there was the sound of a group of pilgrims singing inside - gospel style. It appears that this church has a particular echo - similar to singing in the bath. When our turn came we sang Guide me O Thou Great Jehovah and Onward Christian Soldiers. We sounded really good!!!

Within the Church compound is the Pool of Bethesda where Jesus cured the crippled man with the famous words "Take up thy bed and walk". After walking around the site of the pool we returned to the gardens and we assembled the men to have a photograph taken. No-one misses a trick in this city and in no time a professional photographer had arrived on the scene and taken a photograph which he promised to deliver to the hotel later in the week at £5 each.

We had really enjoyed the morning, and, of course, the weather was absolutely perfect. Haggai had arranged for us to have lunch in a small cafe. He had mentioned this earlier and we had all agreed to partake of Falafel - a typical Israeli snack of Pitta bread filled with - anything that came to hand I think. Most people enjoyed it but it wasn't really my scene. The men serving it had something like three teeth between them. I wasn't impressed, especially when one of them spilt hot coffee over Dorothy. However, he was very apologetic and it was a pure accident. Fortunately Dorothy was not scalded.

We then proceeded up the Via Dolorosa. The first station of the Cross where Jesus is condemned to death is inside the courtyard of a Muslim boys' school. I have seen the Via Dolorosa described as Christianity's most melancholy thoroughfare - the Street of Sorrows. We began our journey at the Second Station - Jesus takes up the Cross - This is marked by the Chapels of Condemnation and Flagellation. Further on is the Ecce Homo Arch where Pilate produced the tortured Jesus saying "Behold the Man" Initially I felt a great sadness but I must admit that for a time on the way I completely lost it. In hindsight I wonder whether there is more of an atmosphere on Fridays when pilgrims actually carry crosses. The early stations had some impact. Thereafter we seemed to get split up. I would have liked to be sure that we kept together and that we could acknowledge each station with a short prayer. Of course, the traders are carrying on with their business as they would have done in the time of Christ, although the goods for sale differ considerably. Haggai had told us to ignore beggars. There were many of them. Young women sitting on the floor holding babies of only weeks old. It was very hard to resist giving them something, but I think most people did as they were told. The inserted leaflet shows pictures of the various stations. As I say some of those in between did not move me emotionally simply because of the hustle and bustle going on around.

Station IV - the chapel commemorating the point at which Jesus meets his mother. Very emotional.

I seemed to be back on course at the Ninth Station - Jesus falls for the third time - when we visited the Coptic Church of the Ethiopians. The atmosphere here was very emotional and we heard a reading. This is where Jesus stumbled for the third time. This is an unusual church. The monastery is a replica of an African mud-hut village, and the the chapel is actually located on the roof of the Holy Sepulchre.

Station X - Jesus is stripped of his garments - by now we have come to the Holy Sepulchre Basilica, and the next five stations are within the Basilica. I am sure that other people, like me, have had a vision of a high hill with three crosses. Of course it once was a hill but so much has been built on top of it that one tends to lose the impression of "There is a green hill far away".

The Basilica is actually five churches in one, each one closely administered by one of five denominations - Roman Catholic, Armenian Orthodox, Greek Orthodox, Abyssinian Coptic and Syrian Orhodox. However, we were told that the keys are held by a Muslim??

Station XI - Jesus is nailed to the Cross - within sight of his mother. This is a wonderful shrine which was redecorated with mosaics in 1938.

Station XII - Jesus dies on the Cross. The Greek altar stands over the Rock of Calvary.. The hole beneath the altar is traditionally the exact spot where the cross was erected. To actually kneel at the spot was a great spiritual experience.

Station XIV - Jesus is laid in the Tomb. Christendom's most sacred place. The site of Jesus burial and Resurrection, housed in its own chapel is the focal point of the entire Basilica of the Holy Sepulchre dating to the time of Constantine the Great.

At the end of this very physically and spiritually testing day we assembled and walked together to meet up with the coach. As we assembled, Ann, Cath's sister-in-law walked across the road to a shop and bought a stick for Bob. I must say he was looking very grey and exhausted and I wondered whether it had all been too much for him. It is not just the physical aspect but the emotional one.

As always, Toby was waiting for us with his coach in a convenient spot. Magic.

Wednesday 26^th November
We left the hotel at the usual time of 8.15 am and travelled to the Dead Sea. The terrain was that of dessert and there was a lot of emphasis on wadis. It was very barren and full of unusual formations. There were many Bedouin settlements surrounded by goats, sheep and camels. These people have a quality of life. Maybe not by our standards but I think they must be very happy and stress-free but one wonders how long it will be before they are absorbed into the rat race. Our guide told us that already many of the children are being educated and going to universities. It is nothing for a Bedouin child to walk more than 10 miles to school where necessary.

It seems that at 50 years of age the bedouin man finishes work and thereafter rarely leaves the house. He becomes old very early in life. Theirs is a total outdoor life. The women seem to be pottering about around the makeshift dwellings and the men are tending the sheep and goats. Many of the shepherds are up in the hills and the echo in the hills almost allows them to hear each other from afar.

Of course Bedouins are easily recognised by their dress. - we now have one or two in Mold I believe!

There were some impressive sights to behold. At one stage I saw a camel silhouetted against the skyline as he sat on top of a rock.

Our first stop was at Qumran where the Dead Sea Scrolls were found. These were rolls of writing in Hebrew and Aramic. They were found by accident in 1947 in caves in shepherds who were looking for missing goats. The scrolls are the earliest known biblical manuscripts in existence. There was disappointment because they do not shed any new light on Jesus but they are of interest for scholars of the Bible and early Jewish history and Haggai said that there are many people still searching for further finds.

Of course wherever one stops - however remote the spot - there is always a SHOP. The one at Qumran was quite an up-market one and Wendy and Dorothy indulged themselves. Wendy in a black shirt with hand embroidery and Dorothy a black dress which was hand-embroidered. I was very tempted to join them but I always seem to become paranoid when I get to these time-confined stops and just go chasing from one place to another unable to make up my mind about anything. Dorothy tried hard to persuade me but I resisted.

We then travelled to Masada - a fortress 1,424 feet above the Dead Sea. Atop of this is a Palace built by Herod as his summer palace. He fortified it when he became King for fear of being attacked by Cleopatra.

As I left the coach I had definite plans to overcome all fears and to ride up in the cable car. However, as I strolled nonchalantly up the hill I lost my bottle. Haggai said that after the cable car there were 88 steps to climb to the very top. I knew I could not climb 88 steps and then I looked up at the cable car terminus and it seemed to me that there was not much around there for me to balance on. The space seemed very limited. What would happen to me when I actually arrived? I would probably go to pieces and make everybody else miserable. So for fear of spoiling anyone else's pleasure I decided to stay put at the bottom. Fortunately, I was not alone because Elwyn suffers from the same problem and he and Ann stayed at the bottom and we were joined by Bob. I think I did the right thing but after looking at pictures of the top there did seem a bit of a platform but I may not have been able to cope.

Sitting below it was a beautiful day. The sun was beating down on us whilst we waited for the others to return. The views were good. I watched a herd of camels going slowly from west to east among the moonscape. Next minute I watched cars travelling quickly from east to west. What contrasts. The scenery was just something else. Unbelievable.

When everyone returned we went on to Ein Bakek where there are changing rooms and a good restaurant. Dorothy, Marian and I assumed that everyone was going to eat first. However, as we sat on the verandah eating our very expensive lunch we saw most of the others in various forms of undress making their way to the sea. After lunch we thought we would join them but I had left my costume in the coach and it was locked. We wandered down to the water's edge. There were plenty of chairs available, and we sat and watched some of our pilgrims playing in the sea. After a while it looked so inviting I felt I must go in and have a float. By now Brenda, Kay and Marj had decided to leave the water so I borrowed Brenda's costume and went in. It took me a little while to float but with Freda and Nanette's assistance I managed it ultimately. At first I found it difficult to put my head back but once I did it was a wonderful feeling. I was frightened of floating away! However, Nanette kept a close eye on me. It was great - the water beautifully warm and the sun quite hot.

Eventually we began our journey back. The landscape had taken on a new look with the changing position of the sun. Not pretty, but stunning. Unfortunately I soon fell asleep and missed the last few miles back. We were soon at the hotel. This was another day to remember.

At night we went out to the theatre at the YMCA where we saw a truly Israeli show. The dancing was fantastic. All professionally done. Lovely fresh costumes. They were so energetic and the commere was a very powerful and beautiful lady. I suspect she was the dancing teacher. It was a wonderful night and we strolled back as a group. The air was warm. I telephoned Emlyn on the way back.

Thursday 27^th November
Set off from the Hotel at the usual time of 8.15 and made our way to Jerusalem. We entered by the Zion Gate and walked in the old Jewish Quarter. This was in stark contrast to some of the souks and one had a feeling of light, space cleanliness and tranquility. The area has been damaged many times - the last time in 1948 and it is therefore not surprising that much of it is modern. Haggai explained that there is a tremendous amount of excavation going on here and there are as many as 23 layers of buildings to be excavated in some places. How different the whole landscape must have been centuries ago. The area of excavation is known as the CARDO, the main thoroughfare of Roman Byzantine Jerusalem and a former Crusader marketplace. The shops were attractive and very expensive. He promised he would try to find time to bring us back here. The place had a lovely feel to it.

From there we travelled once again past the Damascus Gate which is always fascinating It is the finest of the city gates dating from the reign of Suleiman the Magnificent - 16th century. It is the busiest gate with always a steady stream of Muslims travelling in from their homes in East Jerusalem to shop and work. Added to this is the wonderful sight of the Muslim ladies just inside the gate selling their wares - fruit, bread, cloth etc. A fantastic picture.

We then went to visit the Church of Pater Noster which had been closed on the first day we tried to enter. This is a Church where Christ is said to have taught the Lord's Prayer to the disciples. Around the cloisters there are mosaic panels bearing the words of the prayer in virtually every language, including Welsh.

We travelled on to the Yad Vashem memorial to the Holocaust. En route we passed some very smart buildings including the Knesset - the Israeli Parliament. The Museum tells the history of the holocaust in words, pictures, art, sculpture and actual exhibits. It is a harrowing place to say the least. However, I found myself distracted by the amount of noise. I would have liked to have studied it quietly but there were some guides explaining things in detail. I can only assume that their language did not appear on the explanations. It certainly upset many people and perhaps people younger than me. I think we can remember a great deal about it anyway although we were not very old at the time. I was not as shocked as some people seemed to be. I wondered a great deal how German visitors cope with it.

When we returned to the coach Marian was not feeling well and it was decided to return her to the hotel in a taxi. Marj felt she had had enough and she decided to go with her.

We went on to Bethlehem once again and back to the large shop we had visited previously but first we went to a very smart restaurant for lunch which was good and not particularly expensive.
My intention now was to buy that crib which I had searched for all week, but again we were working against the clock and the assistants persisted in following you around if you touched something and showed an interest. In the end I came out empty-handed yet again. What annoys me about the shops here is that they quote the prices in dollars. It is crazy when they have a currency of their own and very deceptive for us.

We had been scheduled to visit Rachel's Tomb which is on the road to Bethlehem a few miles from Jerusalem. Rachel died giving birth to Benjamin and this is her burial place. "And Rachel died and was buried in the way to Ephrath which is Bethlehem. And Jacob set a pillar upon her grave, that is the pillar of Rachel's grave unto this day" (Genesis 35). However, Haggai, our guide said "there is something going on there and we cannot go". As you have read, this has been mentioned before.

This was the only the second occasion on which trouble crossed my mind, and, of course, the next day there was some shooting in Bethlehem. Otherwise I always felt quite safe.

We then visited the Biblical Resources Scripture Garden. I initially joined the tour but the guide was an American woman and quite frankly, although very knowledgeable, her 'twang' got to me and as I was feeling tired I retired to the cafe for a coffee with Cath and Win and a look around the very interesting bookshop.

On the way back to the Hotel Haggai said he would give us the chance to go to watch some diamond-cutting and polishing. We went into a very modern building and were greeted by a charming young lady who told us that the diamonds were imported from South Africa and they were concerned only with the cutting and polishing. We watched two or three men at this very intricate work for which they must need very good eyesight.

Inevitably there followed a visit to the showroom where the different clarities of the stones were explained etc. "Now perhaps you would like to look around". I looked at some eternity rings with no intention of buying. However, after trying a couple on the young lady introduced me to a very nice ring containing seven small diamonds which would fit beautifully around my engagement ring. I asked the price - just for devilment. I said that it was impossible. Her retort, as you would expect in this country, what are you prepared to pay. I told her. She agreed. What do I do now? I knew that if Emlyn was here he would say "go on get it". I debated for a moment or two and could hear his voice telling me to go ahead. I did so. I think some of the people in the party thought I had gone mad. They seemed very concerned as to what Emlyn would say, but I was quite confident that he wouldn't turn me out when I got home. How could he? He had told me so many times that he was missing me!!!!

I was supposed to keep the ring wrapped until I had come through customs. However, I felt it was safer on my finger than in my handbag and did wear it, rewrapping it for the purpose of customs. I liked it very much and felt justification in buying it as we had spoken for some time of having an eternity ring to protect the shanks of my engagement ring - as good an excuse as any!

Back to the hotel to pack for our departure the following morning.

Friday 28^th November
Left the hotel and set off for Tiberias. I felt very sad. I had come to love Jerusalem despite all the criticism of it. I never felt threatened there. the following is a review of the new book written by Con Coughlin 'A Golden Basin Full of Scorpions; The Quest for Modern Jerusalem'. How beautiful Jerusalem is, and how saddening. Nationalism and religion have rused there, as though in some monstrous experiment to prove that mankind is irredeemably irrational. What ought to be an historic and evocative shrine to three kindred monotheistic religions is a laboratory of hate and bigotry. Time and time again its streets have run with blood. Even today, the mere opening of a new doorway near a holy site is enough to cause a hundred deaths.

I am aware that most of this is true but I have to say that I never felt it. It is said that Christianity is dying on its feet in its own birthplace. Only 12,000 Christians now live there. Archbishop Carey has predicted that the Christian Holy Land will soon become a "Disney theme-park". Not in my day I hope.

Jerusalem is a unique city and in my view there is nothing which I have ever seen to compare with it. I would love to go back one day and take Emlyn with me. In Jerusalem next year!

We took the road west to Jericho via the Wadi Quelt which is 2 miles west of Jericho. Here is the monastery of St George - the most impressive one in Israel - clinging to the cliff face. It is on a very ancient site but was rebuilt in the 19th Century. It hangs precariously on the edge of the valley and is right in the middle of the wilderness, and as you look across the steep valley at the monastery you can see a path. This would have been the way Jesus walked from Jerusalem to Jericho. The monastery is also known as the monastery of the Temptation. Tradition has it that the site of the monastery is the cave where the prophet Elijah, taking refuge, was brought bread and meat by ravens.

As the coach stopped it was surrounded by bedouins - young and old. They followed us up the mountain trying to sell beads, head-dresses, belts etc. As usual, many of us succumbed. In fact I had little option but to buy a head-dress when they had already put it on my head. There was a boy of about 3 with his camel but if you wanted a photograph then you had to pay. He was calling "more money please". They are certainly geared up to the tourist. In fact sometimes when you stop at these places you begin to wonder whether you are on a Christian pilgrimage or a retail one!!!! Unfortunately my film ran out at this point so I have no good photographs. Hopefully someone else has.

The sight of the monastery was breathtaking. One wonders how it clings to the rock.

We returned to the coach and then proceeded along the top of the valley, twisting and turning. The drops were frightening and I opted for not looking out of the window. It was a very tenuous road and took all the driver's skills. Not too soon we dropped down into Jericho which is an oasis in the middle of the wilderness. It is very lush and fertile. There were fruits of all kinds in evidence and the blossom was lovely. In times past rulers used it as a warm weather retreat.

We had the usual glass of orange juice, a poke around the inevitable shop and then some of us walked to look at the excavations which were in progress. In some cases there were as many as five or six layers of cities and some of them dated from 9,000BC. It really was the root of civilisation. Some of it still looked very primitve whilst other parts contained large houses and looked very affluent. Here there is no shortage of water. They don't ban hosepipes after three weeks of dry weather!! The source of the water is just one spring, and the water flows down from the mountains.

We then continued our journey to Meggido. This is a town of importance in Christian apocalyptic beliefs since the Bible gives it as the site of Armageddon in the book of Revelation. The last battle. This takes its name from the town. Meggido was a strategic point in the trade routes between Egypt and Syria and was consequently fought over many times. Ultimately its name became synonymous with war and destruction.

It still has an impressive 9th century BC water system with a long tunnel. After an enjoyable lunch Haggai took us to see a working model of the area and later those energetic ones walked to inspect this and walk up the TEL but there was a climb of 80/90 steps. A tel is an artificial mound created on the accumulated debris of the past. Megiddo is famous for its tel. We met up with the energetic ones later but we went on the coach. As we waited for them we sat in the sunshine. It was beautiful.

We then continued the journey to Nazareth. I somehow expected a small village but it seemed to be a huge - and not very nice - city. In the area we stopped there were lots of very tatty shops. Blow-up Father Christmas was very much in evidence. Seemed very dirty and very commercialised.

We walked to the Basilica of the Annunciation. It stands on the traditional site of the Virgin Mary's house and the cave where the Archangel Gabriel appeared to Mary to herald the birth of Jesus. It was built in 1966 and is very modern. It did not bother me that much but I have read an opinion that its interior resembles an airport concourse more than a conventional church.

The highlight here - and I still had not got a film - were the many colourful, inventive murals donated by different countries depicting the Virgin and Child, many in their own national image. Wales is included and Win Taylor and I felt that it had the stamp of Emlyn's cousin's pottery, but I must confirm. Some of the murals are quite unattractive. In one Mary appears kimono-clad and with slanted eyes; In another she wears a turban and bright African dress. The Americans, no less, have produced a highly modernistic cubist version of the virgin. It was a magnificent church and we had a short service. Marion Watts did the reading appropriately because she was born on Annunciation Day.

We strolled back to the coach, and once again I felt on the retail pilgrimage. I managed to confine myself to a film on this occasion.

We then made our way to Cana to the Church marking the spot of the wedding when Jesus turned the water into wine. Seven couples had expressed their desire to renew their wedding vows and the necessary arrangements had been made. We were welcomed by a Nigerian (I think) priest and he provided Ian with the necessary robes and helped in preparation for the service. It was a wonderful experience for those involved but very emotional especially for those who had lost partners or people who had left a partner at home. I found it very moving.

Afterwards there was a wedding reception with cake cutting. Some lovely gateau was handed round but I opted for 2/3 baclavas - I have become very fond of these quite sickly cakes. Not like me at all.

After the reception we continued our journey to Tiberias on the shores of Lake Galilee. By our arrival it was dark and we could not see very much but the hotel was very good. The rooms were very spacious and we managed to realise that we could see Lake Galilee from our room.

We had a very good meal followed by a stroll to the swimming pool and an investigation of the geography of the hotel. It was a lovely balmy evening. I made my usual telephone call to Emlyn. I had been invited to go to Ann and Elwyn's room for a drink to celebrate the 'wedding' so I took Brenda with me. I think the others went to bed. As we came from there we heard music and decided to investigate. There was live music and quite a few young people dancing - I suspect they were locals. There were three young people beside us who struck up conversation. The couple were newly married and accompanied - so they said - by his sister. But it was difficult to understand what his relationship was with the two women. A very strange setup. He told me that they had been married for two days!!!!

Brenda and I had a dance when it was a twist, but then followed a slow foxtrot and we thought that the men sitting at the bar were viewing us with curiosity so we had better sit down.

We went to bed rather late and very tired.

Saturday 29^th November
We had left our windows open and we awoke to the sound of the wind and the curtains blowing across the room. We suspected that the trip planned for the lake would be called off. After breakfast we joined the coach and after Haggai had viewed the lake it was decided to postpone the crossing until later.

We travelled around the lake as far as the Sanctuary of the Primacy of Peter which notes three important gospel events. The Sermon on the Mount; the Miracle of the loaves and fishes and the apparition of the Risen Lord where he commissioned Peter "Feed my lambs - look after my sheep".

The name of the place is Tabgha but in Hebrew is called Ein Sheva.

This was a highlight because here we celebrated Eucharist on the shores of the Lake with the wind blowing too hard to keep the candle alight, but it was very warm. We visited the Church. We then travelled on to the Mount of the Beatitudes.

It was on this hill that Jesus gave his famous Sermon on the Mount (Matthew 5) and also chose his disciples. On the site stands a beautiful black and white octagonal church built with the aid of Mussolini in 1937 and known as the Italian Church. The views over Galilee are wonderful and it seemed very peaceful. Here we had the reading in Welsh by Bronwen. Haggai said that the wind was the scirocco which blows from the Sahara Desert so, of course, it was beautifully warm. Of course, like the Mistral, it has much folklore attached to it and Haggai said it would blow for three days!

We had the usual glass of orange juice and then set out for the Golan Heights. I was interested to see them because they figure so much in the international news. They have always been strategically vital, and the current dispute over them is merely perpetuating a tradition which goes back to the Romans.

It was Syrian territory until 1967 when Israel seized it in the Six Day War. They then annexed it by parliamentary decree in 1981. Nowadays it is not recognized as Israeli territory by the UN but as an Occupied Territory, and a UN zone separates the factions.

Our first stop was at Banias/Caesarea Philippi or the Town of Pan which is situated on the slope of Mount Hermon. It is famous for being one of the main sources of the River Jordan.

Herod dedicated a temple here to his patron, Augustus Caesar, and Jesus came here to reveal his true identity to the disciple Simon Peter (Matthew 16:13). A small Greek Orthodox Church commemorates the occasion.

The old pagan site dedicated to Pan the God of nature is in the cave from which the source of the Jordan gushes out.

The Crusaders (busy people) built a town here and also erected a fortress called Nimrod's Castle on the site of a structure which was reputed to have been built by the same man who built the Tower of Babel. There is much to see in the ruins. Before leaving several people filled bottles with the river water. I filled a small bottle in the hope that one day I may have a grandchild to be baptised. I shall keep it safely provided Emlyn doesn't use it to go with his whisky!

We continued to the Golan Heights. We saw the Druze villages on the way. The Druze are a sectarian Muslim group who reject many of the teachings of Islam and share very few allegiances with the Palestinian Arabs. Apparently they are a very hospitable race. They have no formal places of worship.

Later we saw the outposts and the dividing barrier between Galilee and Syria. Over the mountains beyond lay Lebanon.

We left the mountains and made our way along the road to Tiberias stopping first for lunch. These restaurants seem to crop up in the middle of nowhere and obviously rely totally on tourists. However, they seem always to be well-equipped and ready for the onslaught. This one was a bit on the expensive side compared to some of them and I must say that their attitude was just a little unfriendly. It was possible to have St Peter Fish if one so wished. Otherwise there was a very comprehensive salad bar. Dorothy opted for the fish but then changed her mind. However, it is obviously not a woman's privilege to change her mind here. She was forced to have it although only a couple of minutes had elapsed. I was glad I had not ordered it because it did seem to be extremely boney. However, Dorothy said that the taste was good.

In Jesus' time Capernaum was an important border town between rival kingdoms. It was the home of Peter the Fisherman, his brother Andrew and probably three other disciples. Christ conducted much of his ministry in this area. Today one can see the remains of Peter's House (covered with a rather modern looking church) and the ruins of a 2/3rd century synagogue.

Nearby stands a tiny picture-postcard Greek Orthodox church with white walls and brilliant red domes.

We continued our journey along the lake to the Church of the Multiplication of the Loaves and Fishes at Tabgha.

We encountered our first rain since leaving home. Consequently some people did not leave the coach to visit the church. There were beautiful cloisters leading to the church which is light and airy with a famous 5th century mosaic floor, depicting, amongst other things, a basket of bread and two fishes.

We said prayers and took some photographs of the mosaics. When we left the rain had stopped and the bougainvillea seemed in celebratory mood after the short shower and I could not resist taking a picture of it. It is so rich and colourful. We journeyed back to the hotel. Of course today was the Jewish sabbath so there was no walk to the supermarket. I had just about enough wine in my box to see me through the evening. I telephoned Emlyn as usual and we had an early night.

Sunday 30^th November
It was a dry and calm day but not gloriously sunny on the lake as we crossed to the other side as we should have done the previous day. I thought I would have been nervous because the boat was not very large. It was a wooden boat - quite ancient looking but with an engine. I hadn't fancied rowing across. I couldn't help thinking of the meditation we had had with Sister Margaret on the Saturday before we left. Jesus fast asleep in the boat during the storm and the panicking of the disciples. I really felt a presence there. Half way across they stopped the engines and we had a reading from the Bible by Bob Taylor - bless him. "The calming of the storm". Afterwards we sat in total silence and all that could be heard was the lapping of the waves on the side of the boat. What a wonderful moment. I shall never forget it. I felt God was very near at that time.

We landed on the other side and then drove to the Ein Gevv Kibbutz, On then to Yardenit - Baptismal Site. Yarden is the Hebrew word for Jordan. This was a beautiful calm site on the river. It has become the main place of Christian Baptism in the Jordan river. The reason why this has developed as a baptismal site rather than the actual site where Jesus was baptized is because that is in a military zone between Israel and Jordan.

We said prayers and there was another "never forget" moment for me. We were invited by Ian to renew our baptismal promises if we so wished.We would be marked with the sign of the cross with water from the Jordan. At that minute it did occur to me that maybe the Baptists have it right. What a wonderful moment! I wouldn't want their total immersion but most of us never remember that wonderful and important moment in our lives. I've heard the arguments before but never thought too much about them.

We then travelled up to Mount Tabor. The coach wound its way to a fair height but then we had to exchange it for Mercedes Taxis. This was a moment I had not been looking forward to. I was very doubtful as to whether I could cope. Bronwen and Gordon kindly took me under their wing and decided that they would stick me in the middle of them and I would see nothing en route. I didn't open my eyes until we arrived at the top. This mountain is 588m above sea level and 430m above the plain of Jezreel. There must have been beautiful views but visibility was poor today.

It is believed to be the scene of Christ's Transfiguration. A notable landmark of rare beauty and symmetry. It is a lovely church run by Benedictine/Francisan Monks. We were allowed to use a small chapel for the celebration of the Eucharist. We had to wait a moment or two whilst another group emerged. We heard them singing and I suggested to David Owens that we ought to sing The Lord's my Shepherd. We packed ourselves into the small chapel and received the bread and wine sympathetically prepared and served, as always, by Ian and Muriel. At the conclusion I had forgotten my suggestion to David until he started prodding me to "start them off". So I did and we had a beautiful rendering of Crimond. It was a wonderful moment. As we finished, the mid-day bell began to toll. Another unforgettable moment.
THREE UNFORGETTABLE MOMENTS IN ONE DAY

We made our way in the direction of the coast through the Jezreel valley which is known as the garden of Israel. Extremely fertile and with every kind of fruit and vegetable being grown. A very pleasant drive. We arrived at a small town which, if I remember rightly, was a Kibbutz. Here was a very modern shop/restaurant which Haggai called a mini-market. We had an excellent meal and then 'inevitably' visited the shop. It contained produce from all over the world, including Scottish shortbread and Port Meirion pottery. I bought some wine for the evening. I don't think Ian bought anything on this occasion, but I can't be sure!

We then journed to Akko (Acre), and caught our first glimpse of the Med. It was an important Phoenician, Greek and Egyptian city long before the arrival of the Arabs and Crusaders. It was an interesting place. The guide books describe it as one of the most rewarding places in Israel to be visited, but I would strongly disagree with that. We had to visit a shop which sold brass and copper. Haggai warned us that in this town he may receive a hostile reception in some quarters, and we actually witnessed this. After we left the 'appointed' shop - Ian, as usual, laden, we began to walk through a small souk and Marian and I saw in a shop some beautiful brass and copper and a fraction of the price of the previous appointed shop. We stopped for a moment and the proprietor inevitably came to his door and tried to tempt us in shouting "I don't have to charge a percentage in order to pay the Jewish's guide's commission". It was the first time that I felt Haggai had brought us to the wrong place. However, the town was of some interest with its caravanserai buildings just like the ones we saw in Turkey, a fine mosque and a picturesque port. It certainly had an atmosphere, but I would have preferred to investigate it more rather than spend the time in the shop. By now it was getting dusk and we returned to the coach not yet having visited Caesarea. We travelled along the coast but could not appreciate it because of the light. We drove through Haifa - just another very commercialised and busy city. Haggai pointed out the new beautiful mosque which was floodlight.

Eventually we came to Caesarea but unfortunately it was too dark to see anything. I must admit to a pang of disappointment because I would have preferred to see it rather than Acre. However, I will mention something about it for the records. In fact Toby drove us to see the aqueduct and shone the coach lights upon it, just to give us an idea.

It is a seaport and was the home of Philip. The Phoenicians first built a harbour there. In 22BC Herod the Great developed the site into Caesarea (Caesar's Town) in honour of Caesar Augustus. With its articial harbour, theatre, hiipodrome seating over 20,000 and a great temple it was elevated to become the capital city of Palestine which it remained for 600 years.

In the first century the Apostle Philip established a Christian community there and by the end of the 2nd Century it was the see of a bishop. There followed a mixed history with which I will not bore the reader. Archaeological investigation of the site began in 1951 and is still continuing. I felt quite annoyed about missing it.

We arrived at our hotel which was right on the beach. We got our luggage very quickly, as usual, but tonight there was no time for a pre-dinner drink because although they serve dinner until 8.30 we were hungry and thought we should get to the food. There were already many people in the dining room but somehow it was soul-less after the two other hotels. I real holiday hotel rather than a pilgrim one. I guessed that they were SAGA people and I was proved right when we read the board after dinner. We strolled around investigating the place. There was a very nice health suite with jacuzzi and all mod cons.

Monday 1^st December
We got up reasonably early because we had a lovely balcony overlooking the sea and we could not waste it. After breakfast we made investigations about the bus service into Netanya. There was a bus at 9.15 am so Dorothy, Marian and I set off to investigate the place. I had an upset stomach - I think it was the pomegranate juice which I drank in that square yesterday! We strolled around a part of the town. It was typically tourist. Somewhere there was an old heart but I didn't want to spend my last day shopping so I quickly purchased the book I had in mind for Emlyn and we returned to the hotel and sat in the garden with the sun beating down on us. It was so relaxing. We had a snack lunch in the hotel and later some people went for a swim. I ventured into the Jacuzzi but on this occasion I was asked by the attendant to sign a form indicating any ailments. When I mentioned that I had high blood pressure he suggested that I shouldn't go in. However, by now I had donned by bathing costume and was determined to spend a few minutes there, which I did. I loved it but was very conscious that perhaps I shouldn't be there at all. We were joined there by Ian , another older man and then by two young men who were very curious about where we were from etc. After they left - it was their lunch break - the older man suggested that they were something more than just two young men enjoying their lunch break. However, they seemed perfectly OK to me.

A last sojourn around the hotel shop, then dinner and although we vowed not to have an after-dinner drink we did in fact spend half an hour with Kay and John and then off to bed to be awakened at 3.45 am ready for departure.

Tuesday 2^nd December
We arrived at the airport and joined the queue although we seemed to be switching queues constantly finding most of the time that the people behind were ending up at the front. However, we eventually arrived in duty free with not a lot of time left to kill. I bought a bottle of whisky for Emlyn, a book about Judeaism and, at the very last minute, a small chalice in Hebron glass. Why hadn't I bought some before? I had concentrated my mind on buying a crib scene - which I never did. I now have regrets, of course.

Boarded the plane and David and Denise tucked me in between them for the flight. I was somewhat nervous and was not helped by the remarks which came across the aisle from the Reverend. He insisted he was trying to divert my attention from my nervousness but as I said to him "as a counsellor he would make a good plumber". The food and the drink arrived and finally we were preparing to land. I hung on to David one side and Denise the other. David said that he didn't know how ardent a Christian I was - managing to say so many prayers in such a short time!!

Soon we were back outside Heathrow where we had begun our adventure, and not very long after the coach arrived to take us back to Mold.

We arrived Mold at 6.50 pm after a really fantastic experience. I shall never forget it and it was, for me, all I had envisaged and even more. I have nothing to say to the cynics who have walked in the steps of Jesus and never felt anything. Perhaps I am a simple soul and always ready to believe. My faith has been with me since as long as I can remember and visiting the Holy Land has not shaken it in any way.

Ian conducted this Pilgrimage extremely well with a great depth of spirituality where appropriate and with a great deal of humour much of the time. He attended to people's problems (which were few, thank God) with efficiency and was most helpful. I think the economy of Israel has become healthier as a result of his presence! It hasn't done too badly out of me either. My ring was duly presented to my darling husband who liked it very much, was quite happy that I had spent a lot of money and was more thrilled that I had had the confidence to make this purchase without consultation with him. He was truly proud of me. I knew he would be.

I thank God for the privilege of being a pilgrim to the Holy Land. I am thankful to him to have arrived back safely and to find Emlyn no worse than when I left him. Is Emlyn glad to have me back? In some ways yes. However, after a couple of days he described the house like a beehive again. It had been so peaceful without me!! Here's to the next time. Next year in Jerusalem - maybe!